Meet the young Chinese talents making a splash in Paris

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This season, the Paris Fashion Week schedule gave a platform to an unprecedented number of young Chinese female designers. Each vastly different — from provocative to quiet luxury — they represent the range of brands coming out of China today. Now, they are battling to gain global recognition in the face of post-Covid challenges and the industry’s testing climate.

Zhong Zixin’s eponymous brand debuted with a polished presentation of ornate designs presented by Vogue China and Hong Kong-based conglomerate Chow Tai Fook at the Hôtel de Crillon. Returning for a second outing was Reverie by Caroline Hù, which held an intimate presentation of Hù’s dreamy signature smocked tulle in the 7th district. On the last day of the schedule, nestled between Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton, was the quiet minimalism of Shanghai-based Ruohan.

On the second floor of 16 Rue Alfred de Vigny, guests packed into the Art Nouveau building to see Rui Zhou’s intimate presentation under the name Ruibuilt. Didu was placed alongside big names like Stella McCartney and Ungaro on the schedule on 4 March, opting for a black-box runway show at La Maison des Métallos. In the LVMH Prize showroom, Ya Yi impressed the panel of judges with her Spanish-Chinese designs.

There have been flag bearers in the past: among them, Shiatzy Chen, Uma Wang and Masha Ma. However, China’s new generation of female founders is making an impact by tightening their ties with Paris — despite some lingering barriers. Chinese designers face a number of challenges breaking out abroad, experts say; even more so if they’re women. “It’s definitely harder for Chinese women to break through internationally,” says Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development at the Chinese retailer Eng Group.

As well as having to subvert social ideals at home, Darmon — who acts as Didu’s business manager — says that until a few years ago, they hadn’t received much attention in the press. She outlines that they also face logistical challenges and barriers globally such as “visa eligibility, time zones and distance, and paperwork and banking”. This generation of founders is “showing real bravery” by launching their own labels, she adds.